July 21, 2017

Understanding Lash Extensions

Lash extensions
There are many different things your lash technician takes into consideration when applying your lashes. There are the obvious things, like lengths, curls and thicknesses of the lash, as well as more obscure things such as the shape, volume and material used. Most reputable lash technicians will consult with you first what type of look you are wanting. They don’t need specifics of what exact millimetre lash you would prefer. They just need a general feel of what you are after (dramatic, natural, and extreme are great words to use), and will combine that with what is healthy for the natural condition of your eyelashes and what would look best with the shape of your eyes and eyebrows.

Understanding lash extensions

For those that are curious though, we will explain the different elements that we need to consider when choosing the lash extensions that are best for you.

Lash Lengths

Eyelash extensions come in different lengths, measured in millimetres. They typically range from 8mm to 16mm, but different suppliers may stock even shorter or longer than that. In almost every set of extensions that we do, we apply on average from three to five different lengths to create a natural look. If you were to look closely at someone’s eyelashes with their eyes closed, you will see that on the inner corner their lashes are typically shorter than the ones in the middle or on the outer corners. So, we replicate that to make the extensions appear as natural as possible.

Lash Shapes

Using the different lengths, we arrange the lashes in a fashion that can create different shapes. For example, with a Cat-Eye look we would have the shortest lashes on the inner corners, medium lengths gradually getting longer in the middle and then the longest lashes on the outer corner. Alternatively, with a Doll-Eyed look, we would have the shortest lashes on the inner corner, gradually getting longer toward the middle with the longest lashes in the mid-point, and then gradually getting shorter towards the outer corner. There are also staggered shapes that have a mix of long and short lashes all the way throughout the eye to give a feathery look. These shapes are not just for aesthetic appeal though, different shapes can change the appearance of the eyes. A cat-eye shape would elongate the eye horizontally, therefore being a perfect choice for someone who has quite rounded eyes to make them appear a bit more subtle. A doll-eyed shape elongates the eye vertically and can therefore make a smaller eye appear bigger.

Eyelash Curls

eyelash extensions come in a variety of curls. There are quite subtle curls, for a more natural look, and more dramatic curls, for, well, a more dramatic look. The more curled a lash extension, the more it will sit up on your eyes. Subtle curls will last longer than dramatic curls on someone with straight lashes, as the curl that is closest to your natural curl will hold better, as it has more opportunity to adhere to the extension.


This term is not referring to how thick you want your lashes to look. It is referring to how thick the actual extension is. The diameter. It is also measured in millimetres and refers to the base of the extension. There are stock standard thicknesses that extensions come in. 0.07mm, 0.10mm, 0.12mm, 0.15mm, 0.18mm, 0.20mm etc. The bigger the number, the thicker the lash. The thicker the lash, the heavier it weighs. Which means we do have to take care when choosing what thickness to apply. We will assess your natural eyelashes and take into consideration what they will be able to handle. Although we will always try our best to achieve desired results, this is something we cannot compromise on. It is our duty of care to make sure not to damage your natural lashes.


Now this is how full the set will look. This refers to how many lashes will be applied. The more lashes that are applied, the longer it will take, and the fuller it will look.

Between 35-100 lashes per eye are applied with Classic sets and 300-600+ lashes are applied per eye with Volume sets. This is where we can compromise with the thicknesses. If your lashes are not strong enough to hold a thicker lash, we can apply thinner lashes, but more of them to achieve the desired result.


There are different materials, the most popular being Mink, Faux-Mink and Silk. The difference between Mink and Faux Mink, is simple. Mink comes from the animal, and Faux-Mink is man-made from a poly fibre, synthetic material. The difference between Silk and Faux Mink however is not as straight forward, as Silk is also man-made from the exact same poly fibre. Depending on which manufacturer, they will use different processes of treating this fibre which will result in either a matte or gloss finish, or have a lighter, softer feel, a bolder curl or even impact the way it holds its curl. There is not a standard difference between Faux-Mink and Silk lash extensions and varies with different manufacturers. Basically, they make the lashes different, and label them according to whatever they feel fit. So, depending on which lashes you buy will be the difference between the lashes themselves. It is not a huge difference in my opinion. The decision of which material to use, if given, is almost always chosen by the client. Especially if there is a price-difference on sets.

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